Monday, 9 August 2010

DAY SEVEN (7th August)




Tea and temples weekend...

After an eventful night of crunchy cockroach infested pillows, we had a traditional breakfast of string hoppers and dhal at the hotel, then had a brisk walk along the river to see a huge Dam. We then made our way to the centre of Kandy to change some money and pick up water for the day ahead.
Our first stop was the tea factory, set high in the hills it was a beautiful drive up surrounded by, tea plantations, peppercorn vines, tobacco plants and Teak Trees. Oode Wella Tea Factory was a traditional huge white colonial style building, with beautiful traditional machinery throughout, some made from wood stretching back as far as the 1800 or even earlier. The manager took us around and explained each step of tea production from the plucking of the buds and leaves to the drying, rolling, firing and grading resulting in 6 different grades of tea.
Close to the factory was The Tea Museum which housed ancient machinery and memorabilia showing the rise in popularity and value of tea and its production in Sri Lanka, we also got to sample a lovely cup of tea as we sat below a lovely wooden slatted roof.
On our way to the Botanical Gardens we passed through the Kandy’s University set in amongst beautiful tropical trees and manicured lawns, the University looked like a tranquil and inspiring place to learn.
The Botanical Gardens which was set out in an enormous area, was incredibly well maintained with bright flowers and towering trees cascading from every available space. We were very excited to stumble upon the mysterious Upas Tree which was beginning to feel like an elusive mythical story – The Upas tree is often called a Sack Tree – So Beth is very excited to start researching into this as soon as possible!
We had a really tasty lunch of rice and various spicy toppings before walking through the lush gardens, orchid house and saw some huge bats asleep in the trees!
We then took a ride to the close by market, which had fruit, leather, woven baskets, huge stalls full of ‘western’ clothing – and bought some lovely gifts our friends and family!In the evening we wandered up to The Temple of the Tooth, stored our shoes away safely and made our way up the temples carved steps into an ornately decorated shrine. We were lucky enough to see the beginning of their evening ceremony which involved percussion music to introduce the offering of foods and medicines to their god Buddha.

DAY SIX (6th August)



All hands on bobbins...



Our first visit of the day was Selyn handloom, which is World Fair Trade Organisation certified. We were first shown the dye facilities, which was about 15 minutes away from the outlet shop and looms. We wound through tropical roads and parked outside a small holding which appeared to us to be in the middle of nowhere. The dye house did not use natural or organic dyes, nor organic cotton fibre. We were not given much more information than that the dyes come from Germany on the environmental standards of the dye. We were assured that the effluent was treated to a safe level before being used in agricultural cultivation, however it is not processed to a drinking water standard. All the information was a little hazy and we left with questions not fully answered.
We then visited their handloom workroom, which was an awash with brightly coloured yarns, being woven by senior ladies who were very welcoming, the room was also filled with the cadence of rhythmic clatter from the looms. This workshop is where they weave the fabric that is used for clothing and craft. It was interesting to note that most of the women weaving were over 45, due to their experience and the reluctance of younger women to hand weave. Kate bravely decided to have a go and quickly mastered the rhythm, and managed to weave 14cm in about 15 minutes – and managed to make a couple of friends at the same time, while the rest of us got distracted by the beautiful products in the shop.
Next a quick stop at a handmade soft toy factory to see the production line, where they used the same fabric from the Selyn handloom. An interesting point of note from the toy factory was the use of either synthetic or Kapok stuffing. Kapok is a natural fibre, which is cotton wool like spores from the Kapok tree. The choice comes down to the buyer and Kapok is more expensive, unfortunately resulting in this not being the favorable choice.
Next stop was Ena De Silva, which took a while to find as it was hidden way up in the hills in a beautiful setting. It was a haven of tranquility and creativity, with a warm smell of wax from the batik. We walked down the path into the work room which was an open sided corrugated shed, with women creating detailed batiks, and 5 women hand embroidering intricate cushion covers. This is not an indigenous technique but an adaptation of appliqué and needle work developed by Ena and the workers. It was fascinating to watch these skilled crafts women at work. Some had worked there for 45 years, these women are the batik masters and the younger generation generally works on the embroidery. After being fascinated by the work that was going on around us we had a walk around the premises which was an array of tropical flowers and cascading views of the surrounding hills. Then of course a visit to the tiny shop could not be resisted where we indulged ourselves and each bought an embroidered elephant.
A two hour drive found ourselves in the lovely city of Kandy, where we settled ourselves in our hotel (nowhere nice as our chalets from the previous nights)! (and there wasn’t a giant cockroach on Zoe and Beths bed)!!!.....
We went to a pub for dinner with Dr Nirmali, we had salads, shandy’s and complementary cheese cake. We chanced upon two very interesting American anthropologists currently working in Sri Lanka, who gave us some excellent references for reading on women and globalisation.
We again fell into a bed exhausted after a LONG day.

DAY FIVE (5th August)




The day of the boardroom...

After luxurious showers in our bathrooms open to palm trees and lizards, we had a traditional Sri Lankan breakfast at MAS Thurulie of string hoppers and dhal (and a little scrambled egg.) In the same boardroom where we ate breakfast we were introduced to the vision behind MAS and specifically the MAS Green Plant – the first purpose built sustainable garment factory of its kind.
The presentation was given by the very informed and informative manager of sustainability and communications – Vidhura Ralapanawe. He outlined the main arguments concerning climate change; the information ranged from statistics surrounding Greenland’s melt area to a cows carbon foot print to the potential displacement of over 160 million people in Bangladesh due to sea level rising. He also discussed the affect that climate change is having on Sri Lanka, resulting in changing weather patterns creating irregular rainfall and extreme weather conditions – this destroys delicate eco-systems, directly effecting crop yields.
He handed over to Hira, his deputy who explained the sustainability aspects of the green plant. She covered the materials that were used in construction, the water curtain cooling system, the structure and positioning of buildings, the use of rainwater harvesting for sewage and many, many, many more factors that help to bring the factory toward carbon neutrality through energy efficiency.
We were then given a tour of the factory, which was surreal to say the least. It soothed our factory jaded eyes seeing the idyllic surrounds. Everywhere we went the temperature remained constant, even on the factory floor where there were numerous people and machines working away due to their innovative water cooling system. All the machines are energy efficient helping to reduce the entire plants energy consumption by 40% to a factory of a similar size. The working atmosphere was very calm and pleasant because it is so in tune with nature. Lean manufacturing has increased their productivity by 30%; this helps them to recuperate some of the extra costs they incur from their sustainability practices.
So, as you may be able to tell we were very impressed. However, there is still a way to go with their raw material sourcing, waste fabric disposal and product use phase. These issues are on their agenda, so lets see what the future holds…
The next stop was Dogiefa, a part Spanish owned warp knitting factory – which makes nylon and spandex fabric for lingerie and swimwear. Their fabric ends up in a range of swimwear, from Speedo to Florence and Fred. We were shown the warp knitting machines, which was really quite amazing. Each width of fabric (or, for those in the know - beam) contained 1340 gossamer thin yarns. Before dying, the fabric is put through the holven scourer, which removes any oil from the fabric, this residue (which looks like a sludge) is then sold to a cement factory. We were then taken to their colour lab, which matches colour samples and creates dye recipes for production. The fabric is wrapped around a pipe which is then immersed in the dye, after dying the fabric is heated to set the dye and stabilize the fabric.
TexPrint was our next stop, they are an MAS company, part owned by a Spanish company (TexPrint Spain) who have been specializing in digital printing and screen printing onto stretch fabrics since 2008- they print the warp knit fabrics which are most commonly used in swimwear. Their main customers include Speedo and F&F for Tescos.
They have four different printing methods – flatbed, rotary, dry-on and digital printing.
It was really interesting to see how the designs and inspirations of the designer get turned into reality through Photoshop and clever editing to enhance the pattern so it does not distort during printing onto stretch fabric –it is then transferred into CAD/CAM software to perfect it.
TexPrint have 4 digital printers altogether and on the upper level concentrated on screen printing from big screens (up to 15 colours) because of the length of the machine beds they are put through. Before printing the fabric has to be treated with fixing paste, is printed, and then goes through a series of dryers to make the stretch fabric completely colour fast.
To round off a tremendously busy day, the last presentation was held back at MAS Holdings office, which was about the general sustainability of the whole park. We were told about the biodiversity projects which included increasing the green cover of the park from 14% to 20% by 2012, and educational projects to school children based around each of their other 32 factories, that promoted sustainable thinking.
After our interesting day of frantic information delivery, we went for a lovely dinner at the on-site restaurant. We happened to meet a selection of Nike managers from across the globe who were having training at MAS holdings park, they were celebrating an efficiency award so were in high spirits and as luck would have it they had a huge selection of karaoke tunes, beer and spirits and a very “interesting” live performer, so we fell into bed a little more chilled out and merry.

DAY FOUR (4th August)

Factory fusion...



Today was the first factory tour day, so after leaving Columbo after a quick breakfast at 8am we set off to collect Dr Nirmali and Prabani also from UoM. We made our way to Ocean Lanka at Zone B - a governmental owned industrial park. Ocean Lanka specializes in circular machine knitting, producing cotton mix with elastane for the apparel industry.

The highlighting facts we found from a really interesting presentation and thorough tour around the factory are as follows -

Like most Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers they have a comprehensive Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) policy, this includes paying above minimum wage, free meals, free transportation to and from the factory and medical insurance. Ocean Lanka follow the Ethical Trading Initiative (ETI) base code which means they can produce Fair Trade certified fabric, they are also Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) certified and Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI) compliant.

Whilst walking around the factory we saw every single process they conducted, from yarn storage, knitting, dyeing, finishing and effluent filtration to finalizing a commercially viable end product.


To conclude we were inundated with Sri Lankan hospitality and their amazing interpretations of Western snacks, whilst being able to ask the board members any questions we wanted!

We were very impressed with this factory, until we went to the next one, MAS Linea Intimo, which was equally impressive. We were given a short presentation, from Ivan Brown CEO of Intimo a fellow English man from Liesecter, to introduce us to the MAS way of life. MAS Linea Intimo specialise in seamless knit technology for the lingerie and active sports wear sector.

The highlighting facts are -

MAS holdings as an umbrella company who pride themselves on offering their employees many additional benefits to government set laws, including a 25% above minimum wage, free transportation to and from the factory, free meals and medical care.

Again the tour around the factory was fascinating. The factory machines reminded us of Willy Wonkers surreality of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, with many different machines sucking and dropping out highly technical pieces of sports wear all around us. The intricate detailing and amazing performance enhancing sports apparel was fascinating to see first hand. We were again given an interesting interpretation of western cuisine - lasagne - which was delicious, and spicy potato croquettes. For pudding we had the most amazing buffalo curd and coconut treacle - which didn't taste of coconut but caramelised sugar - we are definitely going to have to buy some when we get to another Food City.

We were given a copy of a book that covers an MAS initiative called "Women Go Beyond" - which helps to build a community spirit focussing on training and empowering initiatives for women in the workplace - and with a working ratio of 95% women to 5% men it sounded like a great investment to us!

Ran Malu Fashions was our next stop, which specialises in hand machine knit and Shima Seika seamless knit construction who supply to companies such as Littlewoods and Zara.
Their set up was very different from the previously visited factories, with a much smaller output and market share. It was however very interesting to see 'chunky' knitwear being produced for the knitwear market, mainly using acrylic yarns and fashion yarns sourced either by the buyers or on request from them.

Their factory also employed 90% women to 10% men, and the factory operated 24 hours a day relying on shifts of 9 hours with the possibility of 3 hours overtime.

Ran Malu operate by both SA800 and the ETI base code, and although have not produced with organic cottons yet they have tried to source but have been met with demand challenges.

After a lovely cup of tea we headed to T & S Buttons, who produce polyester buttons in the Sri Lankan factory (their parent company in Hong Kong is the biggest worldwide supplier of buttons who also make Ceroso and Urea buttons - but sadly not in Sri Lanka). T&S Buttons Sri Lanka comply with OEKATEX standards and are part of the Brandix company. Although the company had a rather chemical aroma it was apparently safe and we tiredly enjoyed the tour around the production line showing exactly how they made buttons (in two different ways - if you're interested its either by a rod or a sheet process), the cutting process was very intricate and could be specified to each customers needs and engraved if necessary.


We had a delicious toffee cake and tea, before heading to Thuruli for dinner and a bed for the night, which we found to be pretty much like five star accommodation. A small bungalow chalet, with polished concrete throughout, flat screen TV and cabal, 4 bedrooms all en-suite with open aired palm tree view shower rooms, unbelievable! We felt completely spoilt and overwhelmed. But happy and content. We slept well that night!

DAY THREE (3rd August)

Facilities galore...

After a fitful night’s sleep in our sweltering apartment, we travelled to the University of Moratuwa where we were to give our second presentation to the students.
We had the opportunity to listen to a lecture on ‘Industrial Fabrics for Commercial Applications’ by Dr Rathna Perera from E Y Technologies in Massachusetts, USA. It was fascinating to learn about the uses of fibres such as glass and ceremics.
We were given lunch in little paper packets of sweet rice and chilli vegetables, embarrassingly we had to ask for a spoon so we didn’t spill food down our fronts.
This time, our presentation was not met with quite the same enthusiasm as we had technical difficulties taking half an hour to set up. One of the students gave us a tour of the amazing facilities that the university offers. Including the; fabric testing lab, spinning lab, weaving lab and knitting lab – all of which house industrial machinery that the students can use and learn about the practical aspects of their trade.




On our way back from the university we stopped by Barefoot, at company that sells handmade crafts including hand-woven fabrics and home-made pickles and cookies. We decided to spend a girly night in, so Saida cooked a lovely meal with fresh vegetables and short grain Sri Lankan rice.
We packed and went to bed early in preparation for our five day journey to garment factories and historical Kandy.

DAY TWO (2nd August)

The Real Hustle To Sea Food Cove...

We started the day with a birthday breakfast for Beth, complete with water melon, chocolate milk and milo cereal, topped with a singing candle!

We then headed out into the heat to the British Council head office, conveniently it was walking distance away. We were greeted with a second breakfast, spicy chinese fish rolls, tomato sandwiches and tea. The presentation was at 10.30, which got slightly delayed by a wardrobe malfunction. Seconds before the presentation Saida's side trouser zipper decided to break! Kate's initiative and Dr Nirmali's spare stash of sari safety pins saved the day!

After the dilemma we delivered the presentation of a lifetime, to all the industry professionals, senior lecturers and British Council representatives. We were all really nervous but the film and powerpoint visuals seamed to make an impression on our audience, (and the content of course).

We wanted to experience dash of local culture, so we endeavored to find a local market via an auto rickshaw, which was cramped as they are primarily for only three people and NOT four western girls. After a typical rickety ride we found our destination of the chaotic Pettah Market. Where we finally found a taylor to fix Saida's zipper for the grand total of the equivalent of 90 pence. We adopted a friend that persisted to show us the ins and outs of the market who did actually suggest a traditional restaurant for lunch, which was amazingly tasty Thali and 3ft long masala Dosa. Our friend was still waiting for outside who still persisted to help us but by this point we had enough of his pestering and ushered him away in a gentlle manner to be answered with 'You stupid proud girls'. we laughed and went on our way to sight see and conduct 'retail research'. The market was a wash of eclectic colours, smells, sights and sounds. It was fascinating to see Hindu and Buddhist temples in amongst the English colonial architecture.

After our intense experience we drifted to the swish calm of Odel department store where we indulged in our 'retail research'. From the lap of luxury we ventured out to the bustling streets and to catch a local crowded non AC bus to the esteemed Mount Lavinia hotel, in true Sri Lankan hospitality, the bus conductor took pity and drove us to the door (out of their way). The hotel was a complete contrast to our experiences of Colombo so far. On the beach side bar we drank ice cold local beer and heady long island ice tea's, and ate the most delicious sea food dishes, freshly caught that day. As we ate our dinner the waves were crashing right in front of us so close they were lapping under our table and feet, A wave in the shape of a 'Sri Lankan waiter' crept up on Beth, who shrieked in the poor mans ear!!! Who jumped out of his skin! This was too funny everyone laughed including the tables around us! the waiter insisted he wasn't another Tsunami!

We took the night bus home to a hot and humid apartment, and we retired to our beds satisfied with our exciting day, ready for the next.

The Real Hustle To Sea Food Cove...

DAY TWO (2nd August)

We started the day with a birthday breakfast for Beth, complete with water melon, chocolate milk and milo cereal, topped with a singing candle!

We then headed out into the heat to the British Council head office, conveniently walking was walking distance away. We were greeted with a second breakfast, spicy chinese fish rolls, tomato sandwiches and tea. The presentation was at 10.30, which got slightly delayed by a wardrobe malfunction. Seconds before the presentation Saida's side trouser zipper decided to break! Kate's initiative and Dr Nirmali's spare stash of sari safety pins saved the day!

After the dilemma we delivered the presentation of a lifetime, to all the industry professionals, senior lecturers and British Council representatives. We were all really nervous but the film and powerpoint visuals seamed to make an impression on our audience, (and the content of course).

We wanted to experience dash of local culture, so we endeavored to find a local market via an auto rickshaw, which was cramped as they are primarily for only three people and NOT four western girls. After a typical rickety ride we found our destination of the chaotic Pettah Market. Where we finally found a taylor to fix Saida's zipper for the grand total of the equivalent of 90 pence. We adopted a friend that persisted to show us the ins and outs of the market who did actually suggest a traditional restaurant for lunch, which was amazingly tasty Thali and 3ft long masala Dosa. Our friend was still waiting for outside who still persisted to help us but by this point we had enough of his pestering and ushered him away in a gentlle manner to be answered with 'You stupid proud girls'. we laughed and went on our way to sight see and conduct 'retail research'. The market was a wash of eclectic colours, smells, sights and sounds. It was fascinating to see Hindu and Buddhist temples in amongst the English colonial architecture.

After our intense experience we drifted to the swish calm of Odel department store where we indulged in our 'retail research'. From the lap of luxury we ventured out to the bustling streets and to catch a local crowded non AC bus to the esteemed Mount Lavinia hotel, in true Sri Lankan hospitality, the bus conductor took pity and drove us to the door (out of their way). The hotel was a complete contrast to our experiences of Colombo so far. On the beach side bar we drank ice cold local beer and heady long island ice tea's, and ate the most delicious sea food dishes, freshly caught that day. As we ate our dinner the waves were crashing right in front of us so close they were lapping under our table and feet, A wave in the shape of a 'Sri Lankan waiter' crept up on Beth, who shrieked in the poor mans ear!!! Who jumped out of his skin! This was too funny everyone laughed including the tables around us! the waiter insisted he wasn't another Tsunami!

We took the night bus home to a hot and humid apartment, and we retired to our beds satisfied with our exciting day, ready for the next.